In all seriousness, I have no idea how women wore all those layers without fainting or suffering from heatstroke every single day. Women probably lived for the winter months when the air was blanketed with chill. Summer, when it could reach about 100 degrees, must have been brutal. And unlike modern women who change their wardrobe with every season, female clothing in the Civil War didn't alter much from spring through winter.
The sun must have been the worst enemy of all women. I know that parasols were supposed to keep the sun off and fans provided some (SOME) bursts of cool air. However, I have personally used both options and can tell you that parasols will not block every single ray of sun, fans will make you hotter once your wrist is sore and you stop moving. It's simple math even I can understand. Layers + more layers = trapped body heat.
Now, I know there are many women who wish to go back in time just to wear all the amazing clothing. And I will admit that I am one of them (although I reenact as a soldier). But while I love hoops, bustles, and all the dresses Rose wears in Titanic, I wish I could have them all in my closet so I could wear them in front of my air conditioner.
So, without further ado, here is my "Clothing Comparison." It will make you glad you don't live in the Civil War era in August.
2014:
Wore: Short (mid-thigh), one shoulder dress from Mandee and sandals.
Time to dress: 3 1/2 minutes
Verdict: Almost died in summer heat.
1865:
Stockings: Before the time of ankle socks or going sockless in flats, almost every woman wore stockings. The lone exception was being too poor to afford them. Stockings were usually made of silk or cotton depending on the wealth and status of the woman wearing them. Black stockings were commonly used for everyday and white stockings were usually found at balls. Yes, there were specific colors for specific occasions.
Chemise: The chemise resembled a plain nightgown that was short sleeved and about mid-calf length. It was the basic undergarment that served the purpose of barrier between body oils and the corset. Most were made of cotton and white in color. Because this garment got the dirtiest, it was washed the most often. Laundry was horrible on fabrics since there were no special detergents or fabric softeners. Colors would bleed off the fabric and white didn't show the wear caused by washing.
Drawers: Think of this as the cousin to modern day underwear. However, underwear in 1865 is not the same as underwear in 2014 that you buy at Victoria's Secret. Drawers were tied around the waist with a drawstring and fit like baggy pants. Remember those gaucho pants all the girls used to wear? (I bought a pair after the trend fell by the wayside so I wouldn't be in the same pants as every other girl at my school). Anyway, the difference between drawers and modern underwear was that drawers were crotchless. (Although I think they still sell similar styles at all the hooker shops in Hollywood). The reason for this design feature was that women did not remove clothing to go to the bathroom. They would just lift their dress. These were also made of white cotton. Some might have had some lace around the hem of the legs.
Shoes: Yes, shoes had to go on early since, once corsets and hoops were on, a woman could not bend over enough to put on shoes. You could try but it would be really uncomfortable. Ladies shoes consisted of either boots or slippers depending on the occasion. Boots were worn during the day and fastened with buttons on the side. Lace up boots came later. (Take notes, Robert Redford. Robin Wright's shoes in The Conspirator were totally not authentic). Boots had little to no heel so there would be less strain on the ankles and back when walking. Unless you were going somewhere by carriage, train, or horseback, you were walking. Slippers resembled modern day ballet shoes and were worn to formal events as they were easy to dance in. They were very delicate and were not made to be worn everyday. But because it was not proper for women to lift the hems of their dresses very high, shoes were rarely seen.
Corset: When I say corset, I do not mean the Barbie pink one from Frederick's of Hollywood. Those are not constructed in the same way because they are meant to look pretty, not to achieve a certain body shape. A corset was one of the most important structural foundation pieces that a woman would wear because it helped achieve that famous silhouette you see in Civil War era pictures. Most women wore corsets on a daily basis.
Corset Cover: Because it was difficult to wash a corset, the corset cover did what the title states. It prevented color or dirt from rubbing off onto the corset. There were many different variations. For example, some buttoned in the front and some bore a resemblance to the modern tank top.
Petticoats: There were a few layers of petticoats. First was the under petticoat. It was worn over the chemise and drawers and under the hoop. This was useful for keeping warm during the winter. Another petticoat was worn over the hoops. Then there were the over petticoats. One or two over petticoats would be worn on top of the hoop so that the boning and lines wouldn't show. These too were petticoats made of white cotton. However, quilted petticoats made for better warmth in the winter.
Hoops: The staple of the Civil War era look. Most hoops were not a perfect round shape. There was a bigger part in the back to give dresses the appearance of having trains. Yes, hoops could be rather large. However, most were widened due to the number of petticoats underneath them. And despite the myth that only rich women could afford hoops, most women owned at least one.
Corded Petticoat: This is not another layer. However, it can be interchanged with the hoop. Working women who didn't have servants or volunteered in camps could not wear hoops. They were a serious fire hazard and hard to work in. Corded petticoats were stiffer in order to give dresses some shape but were not a danger around open fires or in the chaos of base hospitals. However, corded petticoats were not worn in the presence of company. If someone were to visit, a hoop would be worn. Think of it as the modern version of those "working sweats."
Dress: Finally. The dress. Most came in two pieces, bodice and skirt, because it was easier to put on two pieces and not one giant piece. Like modern women, Civil War era women had dresses for different occasions. A work dress would just be worn around the home since no one wanted to stain their best gown. Nicer dresses would be worn out. The fanciest garments would be shown at formal events. Ball gowns usually laced up in the back and required some assistance to put on. Yes, there was some assembly required. Day dresses tended to button in the front. And "Civil War era" didn't mean women had no fashion sense. Just like today, there were trends, magazines, and an overwhelming sense of style. Because the basic shape of dresses did not differ from woman to woman, decorations, embellishments, and fabrics choices all showcased personal style.
Outerwear: No matter the season, women always wore a hat or bonnet, a pair of gloves, and some kind of shawl or cloak. The season didn't matter. Being modest in public did. Summer shawls were usually thinner and cloaks in the winter were heavier to keep out the cold. Fur was also a popular winter choice and many women owned at least one piece that featured it. Remember that there was no PETA.
Time to dress: Depending on what you were wearing, it could take maybe 15 to 20 minutes to dress.
Verdict: I'll go with WTF for 300, Alex. Seriously, how woman survived wearing all these clothes is beyond me. While soldier uniforms aren't much cooler, they are not as restrictive and I've learned a few tricks for keeping cool. So even though I love Civil War era clothing for women, I also love my air conditioner to keep me from passing out :)
Until next time.
XOXO, Kate
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